April - 5 Employment in Isinlivi, Ecuador.
So I'm going to be somewhat stationary working in a hostel in the Andes of Ecuador. The hostel is Llullullama. It's a rustic place and so far I'm loving it. I'll have more to update. Here are some photos from the pass days.
Into the middle of nowhere.
Hit a patch a mud, and fell. The next few hours I wondered the mountains in search of Itislivi with about five feet of visibility surrounded in cloud.
Itislivi, Ecuador
Good Friday procession
April 2 - Rolling with the punches, Ecuador
Awaken when Irene was getting up to catch her bus, I decided to snooze a little longer, the rain wasn't motivating me to get up. It was around 730 when I decided to finally get up. The rain had subsided and it was only the reminant water on the roof I could hear still falling.
I packed up most of my stuff, I was happy that I didn't have to pack up as much as I usually do. Usually the my tent and sleeping bag are unloaded when I stay anywhere long enough, but because this hostel was tucked away I didn't feel the need to unpack everything.
I got to the reception and as the host was greeting me I abruptly ask if their is coffee, realizing my error I do my best to smooth over my transgression. A couple cups of coffee while I pack up the bike and I'm ready to go by 830. Before I leave, Philip tells me he can hear the monkeys and shows me where they usually come. I've finally seens some monkeys, they were small and impossible to photograph with my camera and where I was but I tried.
I was off and I headed straight for San Migual.
The road was as bad as I was expecting, actually it was a little better than I was expecting because there were stretches where it was completely paved. Most of the road was once paved but probably neglected over the last 10 - 15 years so it was rotting from the shoulders inward. I really can think of one close call where I almost lost my traction as a pick up truck was coming the opposite direction, obviously it would have sucked. I know better than anyone else I'm ok with no more accidents, especially involving other vehicles. The other time was coming to this point where the road was basically closed because of a wash out, some guys decided to lay down some planks of wood and charge people to cross, I was told it was 5000 pesos or about 3 dollars to cross. I didn't care to argue and forked over the silver. As I was crossing my tire slipped and I could have easily fallen into the hole I just paid to avoid.
I got to the border around one and had a quick bite, chicken and rice. It was a little expensive because it didn't include a soup which is typical with a Colombian lunch. Down the road was immigration, after a brief lineup I was in and stamped out of the country. I asked where to go for my motorcycle, he told me across the street.
Across the street all there was was a restaurant and when I inquired into exporting my bike an army guy spoke up and told me that there were no services here anymore and I would have to retuen to Puerto Asis, about 2 hours backtracking, I told him that was the case I'd just forget about it. Then one of the woman piped up and asked if I had the document, I told her I did, she said I could leave it with her and it'll get cancelled. Works for me and sadly I was out of Colombia.
Irene caught up with at the border, told me she saw me where the road was closed because of the wash out. I told her that I thought the worse was over and she was welcome to join me the rest of the way, she was hesistant to accept and eventually declined. I told her I'd see her in Quito.
I crossed the bridge and I was in Ecuador. On the Ecuadorian side, immigration wasn't for 25 km in the next town. I came across my first road block where the police were wearing faded narcotrafficantes on their uniform. I got questioned as I have before, he insisted in going through my ammo case with all my dirty laundry. I got asked random and typical questions. I got patted down, he went through my photos on my camera. At this point I just got annoyed. The funny thing is that you don't have to talk to the cops with the same kind of fear or respect as you do with North American cops. I'd actually advise to show some respect but not too much. Keep your cool and your humour but question everything. Eventually I was waved through.
I got to the town Lago Agrio which was about 25 km from the border and couldn't find immigration, in the town I the truck ahead of me had Colombian plates so I asked him. He told me that I drove past it and told me what to look for. I found it and entered. I saw some familiar faces from the previous immigration stop in Colombia. I was quickly told how things worked. I had plenty of copies of my passport, they wanted COLOUR copies. If I could think of one justification for it I'd be cool, often I think they ask for something just because they can. I often felt that way with Mexican bureaucracy. I got my copies and waited about 4 hours. There was one cop processing everything, arrivals, departures and renewals. I was cool with it, but it was eating away my daylight to ride.
It was 6 when I was free to explore Ecuador, getting that feeling that I had to move fast or rush I did the opposite and got some gas and looked for a place to eat. A full tank of gas, 5 bucks. Got myself steak, fries a coffee and a coke only 3.80 and got myself ready to ride to Quito.
It was maybe only a half hour of riding in blind darkness. The lines on the road are faded, I didn't feel too much respect from my fellow travllers on the road so I decided to find a place to camp so I could get a early start in the morning. I had trouble making out the side roads but I could see there was the occasional house. I pulled over to one and asked if set up my tent on their property. The woman was friendly and told me her husband would be home shorty but treated me kindly. Got to meet her kids. She told me when I first pulled up she thought I was the police. Right now I'm typing this as I'm in my tent set up in the garage.
Big river crossing
This crossing cost 3 dollars. If I fell in I wonder if I would get a refund.
Colombian Migration
Spontaneous Camping Spot, KM32
The family that hosted me
Motociclista
Riding the Andes
All smiles if not a little cold
Nick, Irene and Nick
April 1 - Mocoa
I'm just going type something up quick because the internet is going to be down soon, I have to hit the sack because it's going to be a lot of riding tomorrow. I'm hoping to get to Quito. In the meantime, Irene and I did some exploring here in Mocoa. Wondered into the Amazon and it was fucking amazing. Absolute dream. Here are the photos.
March 31 - San Agustin to Mocoa Colombia
After meeting up with Irene in San Agustin we decided to try loading the bike up with her backpack and driving to Mocoa Colombia which is on the edge of the Amazon. The road was in fair condition but it was a little precarious. The weight of the bike was felt over the smallest of bumps. We arrived in Mocoa around 530. Found a great little hostel on a river and called it a night.
Way overloaded bike
Paradise in Casa de Nelly
Myself, Harry & Irene
March 29 - San Agustin
Again not much to write about but I've taken a bunch of photos. Today Irene and I went for a four hour hike to the Magdalena River. Came across plenty of coffee plants, and an orange tree. Not much to write about except I got a little burnt. The walk was amazing, but I'm competely tired. My left knee has been hurting since Bogotá, I did something climbing the Montserrat there, but I think it hurts most when I descend. Something to do when the impact, it's not big deal and it only flares up when I'm hiking something. I think I'll find a tension bandage when I get around to it. In the meantime enjoy the show.
Mare and her colt
San Agustin
March 28 - Camino a San Agustin
There isn't much to write about the way to San Agustin except that about five kilometers outside of the town I went into a curve like I have a thousand times before except this time there was some sand on the road. I lost control, almost recovered but didn't and I ended up falling over on my right side. No other vehicles were involved. My toolbox spilt all over the road but for the most part the bike was ok. I picked her back up shaking a little from the adrenaline. After a quick "am I ok" I realized that again I'm undamaged and after putting my tool box back together and taking a few photos for the archives I continued on my way.
The rest of the route was interesting, mostly all dirt and a few surprises along the way. I went through what I thought was a small puddle and almost submurged Katrina. The vista were spectacular and I tried to capture as much as I could.
When I arrived in San Agustin I was covered in mud and I absolutely loved it, this time I did find Irene and she greeting me with a big hug. It's always great to find a familiar face every so often. That night we ate spaghetti and caught up on the few weeks we were apart. Last I saw her was when I was in Bogotá the first time.
Here are the photos of the crash and the stunning scenery of Colombia. Sometimes I have to remind myself that I'm living a dream.
Sand can kill you
A bad start to an othererwise great ride
This time wasn't my fault
See that sand on the road, always could be worse
Something else to fix in the morning
Who doesn't love waterfalls
Just the way I like her, all dirty.
March 27 - Popayán
Popayan was a cool litle town along the trans-american highway. I was about twenty kilometers outside of town when a guy on a 650 BMW greeted me and insisted on giving me a personal escort into Popayán. He told me he had a restaurant but unfortunately I didn't go looking for it. When I got to the hostel I was expecting to find Irene there but when I arrived she wasn't there and last I heard from here was Friday. While in Popaán I checked out some natural thermal baths that were just outside an even smaller town named Coconuco about forty kilometers outside of Popayan, for the most part pretty relaxing. The next day I was able to get in touch with a girl I had met in Cartagena who is orginally from Popayan but now lives in Austria. We went for a coffee and a quick bite.
I met a few of her friends and I'm glad she thought I was entertaing because I was entertaining the idea that in a relationship monogamy isn't exactly realistic in the long term. Something I think about a lot but really have no practice in it. Simply put I have a lot of friends who are in long term relationships but who seem to wonder, I don't think exclusivity is important in a long term relationship but honesty is definitely important, at least to me. Anyway, the night was fine.
When I was leaving one of the woman who worked at the cafe, I can't remembe where she's front but she told me to be very careful with Colombian woman who say they don't have a boyfriend becaus often they do and it can be very precarious obviously. I told her that for the moment I haven't been involving myself with too many Colombian woman for reasons I didn't mention to her but if you've been following along you know why.
The following day I didn't do much, I tried to find a quiet place to read, which I found until a man came and talked to me. He asked if I spoke Spanish and I told him I did, probably a big mistake. I can't remember how it started, he thought I was a teacher at one of the schools and told me that he thought I had some kind of presence, whatever that means. He went on to tell me his life story complete with docuementation. I don't know why he was walking around with every place he worked and all his references. He was a nice enough person but he started to rub me the wrong way.
Several students walked by, first it was a pair of girls and one of the girls past the other a cigerette and he went on to say how disappointed he was in their behaviour and how god would be disappointed. It was later a couple guys sat near us and he was as disappointed with them. It was then I told him that everyone is figuring out their own way and who is anyone to say to anyone how anyone should live their lives. Mind the obvious, watch your actions if they're going to affect someone else but overall if people want to smoke, it's their life and if people want to drink it's their life. I can only know what's good for me and beyond that I don't want any say and I especially wouldn't want anyone telling me how I should live, most people probably wouldn't tell me to ride a motorcycle. A lot of people have.
He eventually packed up and continued on his way, at this point I was too perturbed to continue reading so I located myself a coffee and went back to the hostel and sulked a little about things that are beyond my control and trying to accept it.
Main Plaza Popayán
Same picture but with a shotgun and gun. Security is always present even in small towns.
You'd think this was a good place to read
March 25 - Going going back back to Cali Cali (for the first time)
I made it to Cali, I had planned to stay in Casa Blanca, it's famous for motorcyclist and David, a guy I was on the boat with left a spare latch for my pelican cases. While navigating through the city I came to an intersection and I wasn't sure what the car was going to do so I slowed to crawl, it didn't matter because I was hit left in one of the ammo boxes, it wasn't hard, she didn't knock me over but she tired to tell me somehow I was at fault even though it was she who hit me from the rear. We argued briefly, seeing how I was uninjured and there was no damage to the bike I continued looking for the hostel. It was too bad her car was undamaged, it would have been nice had there been some reminder for her.
I got to the hostel and it was an easy check in, they had the latch waiting for me in reception. Another rider Fletch greeted me and told me there was another guy from Canada on a DR 650, I knew immediately it had to be Nick, one of the guys I met on the boat from Carti to Cartagena. I knew he was one of the few still in Colombia. After checking in I went over to the parqueo and found Nick cleaning his filter.
Besides checking in to the hostel and doing some maintenance on Katrina I can't say I did much for the two nights I was in Cali. Sunday morning it was time to move on to Popayan.
Fletch, Nick and Nick
Some town with an mysterious road block so I went around
The other way
March 23 - Salento
Salento is this little village that has been taking over by foreigners and ex pats. A very beautiful place with a nice feel to it but it didn't exactly feel like Colombia. Half the people you see are foreigners. It was a place friends said to visit and I was glad I had. I stayed in this cool little hostel called Tralala and went on a five hour hike through the cloud forest. There isn't much to write about so I'll just post the photos. The wax plams stretch for about 60 meters. Something that has to be seen.
Yeah those rubber boots were a good idea
March 20 - Back in Bogotá
I made it back to Bogotá Monday morning which was a holiday in Colombia. What they're celebrating I didn't bother to research. The ride from Bucaramanga to Bogotá was uneventful except my rear brake falling off.
I was in a little town still a few hours from Bogotá when a fellow motorcyclist tried to get my attention. I had my ipod on so I had to pull over to know what he was saying. I thought he was curious about where I was coming from, he wanted to tell me I had no rear brake. I looked back and there was my brake just hanging from the brake line for how long I have no idea. In my own defence the brake was soft to begin with, the pads were low and needed changing. Some towns people were telling me where to find some bolts. I went to one shop to see if they would have the proper bolts to secure the brake again, but they only had one that would have worked. I knew I wouldn't find brake pads so I disconnected the caliper and secured the brake line so it wouldn't rub the wheel and continued towards Bogotá with only a front brake.
Traffic seemed thicker than normal. In San Gil I learned there was a motorcycle event so there were a lot of larger motorcycles on the road. I imagine most of the traffic was from people returning from the long weekend.
I found the hostel I stayed at previously, Platypus, and checked in. There was nothing going on that night so I stayed in and waited for the morning.
I told my friend Luis that I was going to need brakes and he said that if he finished work early enough he'd help me find some. After getting some brakes, eatting and returning to the hostel we installed the rear brake pads, Luis helped out even though he didn't have to. I was going to leave the next morning for Selento and we decided to meet for breakfast.
That night I went out with a couple girls from the hostel to this place called La Villa in the zona rosa. It was this bar that hosted a conversation exchange and then turned into a club. For a Tuesday it was a pretty good scene. It was there that I decided that I'm going to stop drinking for a couple months. One reason being for a change and the second for my wallet. I've been thinking of doing it since I'll be working at a hostel in Ecuador and I figure it's a good way to stay out of trouble. My last drink was a jack and coke.
We returned late, around 3 that night.
Luis was come to get me around 8, actually just a little before and I was still packing when he arrived. We discussed it the day before whether it was a good idea to change my front tire, I figure now is as good of time as any.
Before getting breakfast we went to find my a new tire. It was about 50 bucks with the installation. Luis wanted to ride with me to the outskirts of Bogotá and grab some grub. Along the way we ran into a couple Mexicans riding on a pair of Ducattis to Argentina.
After eatting a amazing meal Luis and I said our farewells and I continued towards Salento. Luis thanks for all your help while I was in Bogotá. Hope to see you again my friend.
